rolex date wheel 2824 | replacing with a wider datewheel on an eta 2824 mvt rolex date wheel 2824 I found that a dwo swap on the 2824-2 is more challenging than the 2836. If not done right, it can lead to your dwo sticking or more confusingly shifting off the datewheel itself. This is because the 2824 datewheel is flat.
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0 · replacing with a wider datewheel on an eta 2824 mvt
1 · Tutorial datewheel overlay swap on the 2824 movement
2 · Date wheels on 2836 and 2824
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My issue is the date wheel on the 2824. The jumper mechanism is different to the 2836 and I think therefore that the under proflie of the date wheel is also different from the pics .The DWO goes on top and the numbers sit slightly inside the eta DW, but line up with the da.
I found that a dwo swap on the 2824-2 is more challenging than the 2836. If not done right, it can lead to your dwo sticking or more confusingly shifting off the datewheel itself. . The DWO goes on top and the numbers sit slightly inside the eta DW, but line up with the date window on the Rolex rep dials (or gen dials). There are tutorials around here that . My issue is the date wheel on the 2824. The jumper mechanism is different to the 2836 and I think therefore that the under proflie of the date wheel is also different from the pics I've looked at. Therefore it seems that the date wheels are not directly interchangeble.
I found that a dwo swap on the 2824-2 is more challenging than the 2836. If not done right, it can lead to your dwo sticking or more confusingly shifting off the datewheel itself. This is because the 2824 datewheel is flat. The DWO goes on top and the numbers sit slightly inside the eta DW, but line up with the date window on the Rolex rep dials (or gen dials). There are tutorials around here that can tell you how to do it. Also, if you submariner has a 2836-2, a 2824-2 might not work due to the higher stem position. When I use a 2824-2 I usually swap out the date wheel to one from a 2834 or 2836 since it raises the overlay to where it won't rub on the movement gears. The 2824-2 DW sits lower in the movement and you may have to actually raise the DWO slightly off the DW.
You know, those red reversing wheels, ventilated rotor, multiple plates and bridges, and even the balance bridge – none of these Rolex caliber parts look like your typical equivalent ETA 2824, 2836, or 2892 movements. The 2824, the best known of the family, is nearly 5mm thick and 25.6mm in diameter. Clearly, it’s self-winding, with that oscillating weight spinning up a 38-hour power reserve. The balance runs at 28,800 bph (4Hz) and the movement hacks. If you do a 6 o'clock date window then the numbers on the date indicator will be orientated 90 degrees to the right to normal. Also, if you want to know the diameter of a hole, then you can turn up a tapered rod on your lathe and slide the dial on it.
I have a question about the eta 2892 and eta 2824, specifically about the location of the date on a watch dial. Can the date window be pushed farther from the center of the watch, i.e. larger date rings vs. smaller date rings, in order .
replacing with a wider datewheel on an eta 2824 mvt
Are you sure it’s a 2824 dial with a 2824 date window or is it a 2824 dial with the correct Rolex date window position which would require a date wheel overlay? Honestly, it’s likely the latter. The 2836 and 2824 have the same date . The 2824 is famously simple to regulate, even to a degree of fine accuracy that embarrasses smarter, more expensive motors. The Miyota, despite the balance beating at the same 28,800 vibrations per hour as the ETA/Sellita, claims only 10~30 secs per day. My issue is the date wheel on the 2824. The jumper mechanism is different to the 2836 and I think therefore that the under proflie of the date wheel is also different from the pics I've looked at. Therefore it seems that the date wheels are not directly interchangeble. I found that a dwo swap on the 2824-2 is more challenging than the 2836. If not done right, it can lead to your dwo sticking or more confusingly shifting off the datewheel itself. This is because the 2824 datewheel is flat.
The DWO goes on top and the numbers sit slightly inside the eta DW, but line up with the date window on the Rolex rep dials (or gen dials). There are tutorials around here that can tell you how to do it. Also, if you submariner has a 2836-2, a 2824-2 might not work due to the higher stem position. When I use a 2824-2 I usually swap out the date wheel to one from a 2834 or 2836 since it raises the overlay to where it won't rub on the movement gears. The 2824-2 DW sits lower in the movement and you may have to actually raise the DWO slightly off the DW.
You know, those red reversing wheels, ventilated rotor, multiple plates and bridges, and even the balance bridge – none of these Rolex caliber parts look like your typical equivalent ETA 2824, 2836, or 2892 movements.
The 2824, the best known of the family, is nearly 5mm thick and 25.6mm in diameter. Clearly, it’s self-winding, with that oscillating weight spinning up a 38-hour power reserve. The balance runs at 28,800 bph (4Hz) and the movement hacks. If you do a 6 o'clock date window then the numbers on the date indicator will be orientated 90 degrees to the right to normal. Also, if you want to know the diameter of a hole, then you can turn up a tapered rod on your lathe and slide the dial on it. I have a question about the eta 2892 and eta 2824, specifically about the location of the date on a watch dial. Can the date window be pushed farther from the center of the watch, i.e. larger date rings vs. smaller date rings, in order . Are you sure it’s a 2824 dial with a 2824 date window or is it a 2824 dial with the correct Rolex date window position which would require a date wheel overlay? Honestly, it’s likely the latter. The 2836 and 2824 have the same date .
Tutorial datewheel overlay swap on the 2824 movement
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rolex date wheel 2824|replacing with a wider datewheel on an eta 2824 mvt
